SATURDAY 6TH - ANTHROPOLOGY AND THE CASTILLE

An independent day today in that we took a taxi to the Museum of Anthropology and from there walked to the nearby Castille de Chapultepec.

At the museum, we learnt a lot more about the historic sites we visited yesterday. We learnt that Tlatelolco was founded in 1388 AD. At that time, the area, which is now densely populated suburbia, was a group of sandy islets. We also learnt that Teotihuacan where the pyramids are located collapsed in about 750 AD.

 

 

The museum was very well done in that there were plenty of English panels telling us the story. All one can really say about the history of Mexico is that it is far more complex than one could ever imagine.

 

 

We weren't as well informed at the castle in that there were no English translations but it is very well located at the highest point in Mexico City although the views of the city around were not particularly inspiring. We did get offered the services of an English speaking guide but we declined. We didn't want to spend too much time there. The lady in the ticket booth asked us in English if we were over 60. Because we were, we got in for free!

Our only excitement of the day was when we went to the Touriste Taxi rank to get a taxi back to the hotel. The Touriste taxis are supposedly the safe ones. We found ourselves being harangued by a number of taxi drivers, not all of which were Touriste taxis, eager to get our business. We chose the one with the best looking car which was indeed a Touriste taxi.

Last day tomorrow before heading back to LA for one night on Monday before heading to Japan on Tuesday. Because we lose a day, we get to Japan on Thursday.

FRIDAY 5TH - TEOTIHUACAN

We farewelled Therese and Mario this morning and headed off on our arranged tour to the pyramids. We were in a group of approximately 12 of which all but three spoke Spanish. Our tour guide Francisco very efficiently made every announcement in both languages. As the day went on, it became evident that most of the Spanish speakers also spoke English as they so often do.

 

Our first port of call was Tlatelolco, an Aztec complex in the northern suburbs of Mexico adjacent to one of the first churches built in the city after the Spanish arrived. The Aztecs had the practice of substantially demolishing and rebuilding their complexes every 52 years so archaeologists have discovered Seven layers of temples in this complex.

Our next port of call was a complex of churches, also in the northern suburbs It is described as the third most visited christian complex in the world after the Holy Land and St. Peters. Fortunately it wasn't too busy when we were there.

The complex consists of three churches and a number of chapels. The second church was built because the first became too small for the congregation. The third was built because the second, although still in use is sinking and has a distinct lean to it and you walk uphill as you move from front to back. Attempts to arrest the movement and stabilise it have been ineffective so it will eventually become unusable.

 The third is extraordinary, both in appearance and size but is apparently built in such a way that, although it will also sink, it will remain stable and level.

The highlight of the day was of course the pyramids and other buildings of Teotihuacan, built approximately 2000 years ago by the Teotihuacan people and used until abandoned by them approximately 1300 years ago.

They were discovered by the Aztecs but apparently never used by the Aztecs to any great extent. They were restored to the condition they are now in in relatively recent times and archaeologists are continuing to work on them.

Tomorrow the Archaeological Museum of Mexico.

THURSDAY 4TH - MEXICO CITY

 

Much has been said to us about how busy and disorderly Mexico City would be so we have been pleasantly surprised to find that, although busy, we have certainly experienced worse.

 

We had a full program with our tour guide Mario today and he was absolutely in his element, reliving his younger days when he lived in the city and enjoying sharing his memories with us. He showed us the 1920's built extremely grand Post Office, the National Arts Museum and the Main Square

 and took us to the very grand Mexico Cathedral .

Much of the day was spent with an excellent English speaking anthropology guide Alejandro found by Mario who gave us an remarkably detailed tour of the Mexico Cathedral and the National Palace.

He gave an incredibly detailed discourse on Mexican history. We are definitely suffering from information overload. What I can recall is that the Cathedral is in the Guiness Book of Records for four reasons – The biggest bells in the world,

the biggest church organ in the world,

the heaviest weight bearing wall in the world and the biggest statue made out of keys!

Mexico City is built over an ancient lake and is in an earthquake zone so many buildings including the cathedral are subject to movement and are noticeably out of alignment.

There was a significant earthquake in 1985 which resulted in the unearthing of many archaeological remains of former buildings which had been covered up by subsequent construction over them.

 As a result of subterranean movement Mexico City has its own leaning tower.

Today was our last day with Therese and Mario. They go off to join friends tomorrow and we will be left to our own devices until we leave on Monday. With the assistance of Mario and the hotel concierge, we have an excellent program mapped out to see more of the local sights including a concert on Sunday at the Palace of Bellas Artes.

We are incredibly grateful to Therese and Mario for the Mexican experience they have facilitated for us.

WEDNESDAY 3RD. - MEXICO CITY

After spending most of the day in some very comfortable coaches, we are now settled in the Hotel Geneve in the centre of Mexico City. This is Mario's old stamping ground so he is very keen to show us around.

Watch this space.

TUESDAY 2ND - LAST DAY IN SAN MIGUEL

Slow start to the day today but we did eventually get around to asking the shuttle bus driver who provides transport to the old town for the residents of the complex to take us down town where we browsed the shops and art galleries. The architecture is fantastic. As in the old towns of Europe the exterior of the buildings are in very original condition but, in many cases, the interior has been substantially renovated to enable modern retail shops to operate within the historic exterior shell.

 

 

Several days ago, we purchased a painting we particularly liked as an expression of appreciation to Mario's niece Cristy for allowing us to live rent free in her house. While in Guanajuato, we found the very scene depicted in the painting A great coincidence.

Tomorrow is a travelling day. Because we can't all fit in the car with our luggage, Trish and I will be travelling to Mexico City by bus. Therese and Mario will be joining us part way along the journey after they return the hire car.

Next phase – Mexico City until Monday when we head for LA and then on to Japan.

MONDAY 1ST - A VISIT TO CELAYA

Rest day today but we did engage in a novel activity before breakfast this morning. We went to the Escondida hot springs about 10klms away. It was tucked away up a poorly maintained dirt road but once there, we found a very pleasant complex incorporating hot spring pools fully enclosed in concrete and brick shells. Entering the pools was like entering an underground bunker but, once in, the springs themselves were extremely pleasant.

We had a delightful afternoon having a family lunch at the home of Mario's sister Yoni and her husband Willy in Celaya, a town about 45 minutes drive from San Miguel. Apart fromYoni and Willy, we also met two of their daughters Margarita and Cristy (who owns the house we are staying in) and several of their daughters. Lovely people.

 

We have not encountered any difficulties but security is taken very seriously. The home we are staying in is within a walled complex with full time manned security at the gate. Yoni and Willy's home is located in suburban Celaya but it and the houses for several blocks around it are similarly within a fenced area with a manned gate to get access. One can only assume that, without those precautions, security would be a problem.

These photos are of Cristy's house in the San Miguel complex. As you can see, we are being very comfortably accommodated.

SUNDAY 30TH - HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANDY

We are in Mexico. Andy is on Lady Elliot Island so we can't connect but Happy Birthday Andy.

What a fabulous day. We spent last night in a hotel in Guanajuato in a grand old converted hacienda, complete with wifi so I was able to catch up with the blog posts.

 

The main activity of today was a walking tour of the old town with an English speaking guide whose knowledge was extremely impressive.

The disappointment of the day was his advice that the tunnels used by traffic have nothing to do with the mining history. They were built to remove the traffic from the narrow streets to avoid them becoming impossibly clogged.

There is still a very active gold and silver mining industry being carried on in the district but some distance from the town itself.

 

An actively promoted and very crowded attraction within the town is a street known as the kissing street, so called because it is so narrow that the balconies on both sides are so close that one can reach from one to the other. There is a tale about two lovers making contact with each other on the balconies but it is just that, a tale.

As usual, we are having fun with the language. Having Mario and Therese as interpreters makes communication very easy but it is not an uncommon experience for us to say something in English only to find that we get a response in very clear English. One never knows whether people with whom we might be interacting are Spanish speakers only or also fluent English speakers.

Family lunch tomorrow. Fortunately they speak English.